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Beehives
- Complete beehive
- Accessories
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Nuc hives
- Nucs by format
- With bees & mating
- Spare parts
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Bee equipment
- For the apiary
- For the beekeeper
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Clothing
- Clothing Accessories
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Beeswax
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Pure beeswax
- Beeswax and foundation
- Beeswax foundations
- Melting and rolling beewax
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Pure beeswax
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Bee feed
- Accessories and source materials
- Utensils
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Bee health
- Varroa Treatments
- Diseases control
- Nutraceuticals
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Extraction and bottling
- Before extraction
- Honey extraction
- After extraction
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Bee pollen
- Harvest
- Indicted
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Honey packaging
- Flasks per utility
- Flasks by size
- Other packaging
Honey heaters
Immersion heaters, heating bands, blankets and warming cabinets for working with crystallised honey in buckets, settling tanks or drums. You will also find dedicated equipment for reducing its moisture content.
How to decrystallize honey without losing quality
When a honey crystallizes, it doesn't mean it has gone bad; in many honeys it's a completely natural process. The problem comes when we try to turn it liquid in a hurry or by applying too much heat. For me, a good heating element or a good decrystallizer isn't the one that heats fastest, but the one that lets you work gently, gradually and under control. Honey is a poor conductor of heat, so if we heat it all at once we can end up with areas that are too hot while others are still crystallized. That's where quality is lost: the HMF rises, enzyme activity drops and changes in colour, aroma or flavour can appear.
My advice is to choose the equipment according to the format in which you handle your honey. For jars or small batches, I'd look for simple, well-controlled solutions. For buckets, honey tanks or drums, I'd always prioritize a reliable thermostat, a good contact surface, even heat distribution and the ability to control the real temperature of the honey, not just that of the device. If you bottle frequently, I wouldn't try to save on the heating element: a poor heater can liquefy the honey, yes, but it can also damage your product. With honey, heating well isn't about going fast; it's about preserving aroma, texture and commercial value.
Honey heaters
Immersion heaters, external heating or warming cabinets
Immersion heaters work inside the honey and are chosen to suit the usable diameter, working depth and container. Heating bands, blankets and bases transfer heat from outside: check the container dimensions and whether the model is suitable for its material. Warming cabinets accommodate whole containers; compare the internal dimensions and permitted load as well as the stated volume.
This equipment helps soften or liquefy honey for transferring, filtering or bottling. Softening a batch enough to pump it does not always require every crystal to dissolve. Decide what you need to do before choosing power and capacity.
Three checks before buying
- Actual dimensions. A 520 mm heater must fit through the container opening. The weight of honey a drum holds does not tell you its diameter or whether that heater will fit.
- Installation and control. Check voltage, power, controls and installation requirements in the equipment specifications. The thermostat setting is not the temperature of all the honey.
- Batch workload. Work out how many containers you need to prepare and how much time is available. Higher power alone cannot tell you how long a particular honey will take.
The heat that counts is the honey’s, not the appliance’s. As a reference, fine crystals start to melt at around 28 °C, while coarse ones, such as sunflower or rapeseed honey, need around 40 °C or a little more (Antonio Gómez Pajuelo). That is why the working reference is 35–40 °C, with time: if a coarse grain resists, give it more hours rather than more degrees, because damage is temperature multiplied by time. Heat raises HMF, which the EU honey standard caps at 40 mg/kg, and lowers diastase, which must stay at 8 or more on the Schade scale (Directive 2001/110/EC). Honey conducts heat poorly: put the probe at the top of the cabinet, check the temperature in the honey itself and, if you decrystallise often, test HMF before and after once to fine-tune your method.
Liquefying honey and reducing its moisture are different operations. Removing water requires a dedicated process and measurements before and afterwards. The legal limit is 20% water (Directive 2001/110/EC) and it is wise to stay around 18%, because above that the risk of fermentation rises. A heating band does not replace a honey dehumidifier; honey testing equipment lets you check the result.
Apipasta with vitamins 15kg
Beecomplet® Spring 14Kg
Beekeeper suit with round veil
Oxalic acid 99% 1kg
Beeswax Foundation 5kg
Fresh royal jelly 20g
Classic honey jar 1kg comb-lines TO77 - Pack of 16 units
Promotor L Apis 1 litre