Feeders

How to choose the bee feeder

A bee feeder isn't chosen just by capacity; it's chosen according to the type of hive, the time of year, the feed you're going to give and the real strength of the colony. Stimulating in spring with liquid syrup isn't the same as maintaining stores in autumn or winter with solid feed. The usual mistake is to think that “putting food in” is enough and that's it. If the feed is far from the cluster, if the colony is weak, if it's cold or if the feeder makes spills easier, you can get exactly the opposite: more robbing, fermented syrup, drowned bees or feed they don't get to consume. For me, a good feeder must let the bees eat safely, without getting cold, without dirtying the hive and without having to open more than necessary.

My advice is to choose the system according to the use. For syrups, I'd look at well-protected feeders, easy to clean, with good access for the bees and low drowning risk. In super-based hives, top feeders are usually very convenient because they sit close to the warm zone and let you work fast. In Layens you have to think it through more, because the closed top bars and top ventilation can hinder access and dry out pastes if they aren't placed well. Entrance feeders can work for occasional uses or small colonies, but you have to watch out for robbing. And here I'll take a clear stand: I wouldn't feed with honey supers meant for harvest still on, nor would I use dirty feeders “because it's only sugar anyway”. Feeding done well helps; feeding done badly weakens. Before buying, I'd check compatibility, capacity, access, cleaning, stability, closure, spill risk and ease of refilling. The best feeder is the one that fits your management and lets the colony use the feed without adding problems.