Caps and closures

Twist-Off lids from TO43 to TO110 in gold, black, silver, white and bee-motif, pasteurisable and high-skirt. Plus the threads that are not TO: PP28 and DIN18.

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Honey dispenser Reggina

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Joshua Ivars
Joshua Ivars
With over 15 years of experience in beekeeping, Joshua collaborates with the national beekeeping congress as part of the scientific committee in the area of innovation and sustainability.

My recommendation on jar lids and closures

The lid seems a small detail, but in food it's critical. You can have a good jar, a good honey or a good preserve, and ruin the experience with a lid that doesn't match, that seals badly, that rusts or that doesn't fit the product's image. The first thing I'd look at is the jar's exact mouth: TO43, TO48, TO63, TO77, TO82… “Similar” won't do. With Twist-Off lids, the diameter and the type of closure have to match the container. For honey, moreover, the lid helps to protect against humidity, external odours and leaks in transport. And commercially it also counts: a gold lid usually conveys a classic product; a black one can give a more gourmet image; and lids with a honeycomb pattern or bee quickly communicate a beekeeping product.

My advice is not to skimp on the lid if you're going to sell a food product. I'd always use new lids, food-grade and compatible with the process you're going to carry out. For honey, jam, preserves or creams, not all lids behave the same: if there's pasteurization, heat, vacuum or transport, you have to choose a lid prepared for that use. I'd also check the inside of the lid, the state of the sealing compound, the outer finish, the impact resistance, the pack format and consistency with the label. And here I'll take a clear stand: I wouldn't reuse lids for sale, even if they look fine. A used lid may have lost its seal, have odours, marks or micro-damage that later cause problems. The good lid is the one you don't notice: it seals cleanly, protects well and lets the product look as well cared-for as it really is.

And here is something nobody tells you until it bites: a twist-off is not tightened, it is seated. Four or six lugs ride up a short ramp and the whole closure is a quarter turn; forcing past the stop bends the lug and leaves the jar impossible to open. If it grates or feels like the thread has stripped, lift it off and set it down flat again: there is no thread to strip. And if you fill honey cold, do not wait for the button to click — vacuum only appears with hot filling or pasteurisation, and a button that stays up does not mean a bad seal.

Honey Jar Caps and Closures - La Tienda del Apicultor

Caps and closures

Here you only need to get one number right, but you need to get it completely right.

The lid number is the jar's mouth number

TO plus a number is the mouth diameter in millimetres: TO43, TO48, TO53, TO58, TO63, TO66, TO70, TO77, TO82, TO89, TO100, TO110. Lid and jar have to carry the same one. No tolerance, no "almost".

And the mistake that generates most returns: the high skirt — "DTO" or "Deep" — does not fit a standard mouth of the same diameter, nor the other way round. A TO63 Deep jar needs a TO63 high-skirt lid; an ordinary TO63 will not seal. Read the full code on the jar page, not just the number.

TO70 is the only size that makes you pick a height

Every other diameter gives you two options —standard and deep skirt— and that is enough. TO70 has two different deep skirts, and they are not interchangeable:

  • H14 — the one taken by the Aura jars in 250, 350 and 445 ml.
  • H18, extra-deep skirt — for the GLAM 300 and 700 ml.

Watch out above all if you order it silver: H14 and H18 look identical and are told apart only by that code. And one trap that costs a returned order: the 390 ml hexagonal jar is also TO70, but with a standard mouth, so it takes a low lid even though the diameter matches the other two.

A twist-off is not tightened, it is stopped

There is no continuous thread. There are four, six or eight closing lugs riding up a short ramp, so the whole closure is a quarter turn: rest it flat until it seats, turn to the stop and stop there. Tightening further does not seal better —it bends the lug, lifts the liner and leaves the jar impossible to open.

If it feels like the thread has stripped, it is almost always a lid resting crooked with one lug riding over the ramp: lift it and set it down again. There is no thread to strip. By diameter: TO43 to TO70 have four lugs; TO77 and TO82, six; TO110, eight.

And the point that saves more than one complaint: honey does not pull a vacuum. It is packed cold, there is no hot steam to condense as it cools, so the centre button neither pops down nor clicks. That is not a faulty lid: with honey the seal is mechanical. Vacuum only appears when packing hot or pasteurising.

The liner takes the imprint of the glass rim on the first closure and never goes flat again. For your own use it will take another turn; for honey you are going to sell, a new lid per jar.

Pasteurisable is not the same as standard

If you are going to hot-fill or pasteurise, the lid has to say so. Pasteurisable lids carry a sealing compound that withstands the process; a standard lid can lose its seal and cost you the batch. It is stated on each product page.

The threads that are NOT Twist-Off

  • PP28 — the one on royal jelly topaz jars. It is not a TO mouth and does not cross with any.
  • DIN18 — the thread on propolis bottles, with dropper cap and pipette.

Neither is interchangeable with TO or with each other. If you buy royal jelly or propolis bottles, check which one they carry, because many are supplied without a cap.

Finishes and packs

Gold, black, silver, white and with a bee motif. Packs run from 16 to 25 units depending on diameter: large diameters in 16, small ones in 25. The small jars have their own range of mouths, from TO43 to TO89.

¿Tienes alguna duda sobre Caps and closures?

What does TO mean and how do I know which lid size my jar needs?
“TO” identifies a Twist-Off closure, and the number indicates the nominal diameter of the jar opening in millimetres. A TO63 lid, for example, must be used with a jar made for a TO63 opening; looking roughly the same size is not enough. Always check the TO size stated on the jar’s product page and choose a lid with the same reference.

What is the difference between a pasteurisable lid and a sterilisable lid?
A pasteurisable lid is designed for preservation processes up to 100°C, such as hot filling, pasteurisation or a water bath. For processes above 100°C or in an autoclave, you need a sterilisable lid specified for those conditions. Before choosing, check the permitted temperature and process on the specific lid’s product page, as not all lids are suitable for the same uses.

Can I warm a closed jar in a water bath to liquefy crystallised honey?
Yes, and the lid is not the limit: a pasteurisable lid takes up to 100 °C, far more than the honey does. The ceiling comes from the product. Above roughly 40-45 °C HMF rises faster and diastase activity drops, and the damage depends on temperature and time together, so warm it slowly and take the jar out as soon as it flows. Keep the water below the level of the lid. And bear in mind that on cooling water can condense on the inside of the lid: that drop falls onto the honey surface and raises its moisture exactly where you do not want it.