Candle making supplies

Wick on 20 m rolls, holders, silicone moulds with their bands, fragrance oils, cutting rollers and decoration. Everything that goes between the wax and the finished candle.

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Plastic Wick holder

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4 reviews

Melting pot for wax 1,9l

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1 reviews
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Joshua Ivars
Joshua Ivars
With over 15 years of experience in beekeeping, Joshua collaborates with the national beekeeping congress as part of the scientific committee in the area of innovation and sustainability.

Start by rolling, not melting

Almost everyone who wants to make candles starts by buying a melter, moulds and a thermometer, and spends a fair amount before lighting the first one. There is a shorter route: a sheet of embossed wax and a length of wick. Put the wick along the edge, roll it tight, and you have a candle. Nothing melted, no thermometer, no waiting for it to cool.

Once you know whether you enjoy it, the equipment is worth it. And there the order matters: the wick before the mould. I have seen plenty of people with a fine collection of moulds and a single wick thickness, and then half a dozen candles that tunnel or smoke. The wick is chosen by the candle's diameter, so if you are going to have three mould sizes, you need three wicks.

Candle making supplies

Candle making supplies

Making candles with your own wax is the most direct way to raise the value of that wax. And almost everything that goes wrong the first time goes wrong for the same reason.

The wick is the decision, not the mould

The wick thickness has to match the candle diameter. Too thin for the diameter and the flame does not melt the whole surface, so the candle tunnels down the middle and leaves an unburnt wall. Too thick and it smokes, drips and burns out sooner. There is no universal wick: you test it against the diameter you are going to make and adjust.

Square-braid wick comes on a 20 m roll, which makes a lot of candles and works out cheaper than buying it cut. Wick holders, from €0.70, are what keeps it centred while the wax sets — and a centred wick is half of a candle that does not drip.

The pouring temperature

Wax melts between 61 and 65 ºC and there is no need to go much above that. Above 140 ºC the volatile fractions start to evaporate, and those are exactly what give the honey smell: overheating throws away the aroma people buy it for. Melt in a water bath or in a wax melter, never over direct heat.

Moulds and what they need

Silicone ones close with elastic bands (€1.95) — without them the wax escapes at the seam, and that is the commonest first-attempt failure. There are also rollers for cutting sheets (€5) if you work with foundation instead of pouring, and honey-wax fragrance oils if you want to reinforce the aroma.

For decoration, wax bees in packs of 10 from €1.95. And the raw material is in beeswax in blocks.

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What materials do I need to make beeswax candles?

To make beeswax candles you mainly need:

  • Pure beeswax (in sheets or blocks).
  • Wick (cotton or linen, ideally treated for beeswax candles).
  • Moulds or containers (silicone, metal or glass, depending on your design).
  • A kitchen thermometer to control the melting temperature.
  • A pan or saucepan for a bain-marie, plus mixing utensils.

Tip: make sure you use good-quality beeswax — it is what guarantees the natural scent and an even burn.

How can I make beeswax candles last longer?
  • Use the right wick: too thick a wick burns the candle down fast; too fine a one can go out easily.
  • Trim the wick regularly: keeping it at about 5 mm stops the flame growing too large and makes the candle last longer.
  • Let a wax pool form: when you light it, wait for the whole surface to melt before putting it out, to avoid tunnelling and wasted wax.
  • Store somewhere cool: keep them away from heat and direct light to prevent warping and melting before use.