12L Electric Wax Melter with Water Jacket

01 · WHY A WATER JACKET

Even heat, without burning the colour

Direct heating is the fastest way to degrade wax: above a sustained 85 °C the colour and the ester balance change, with no way back. Here the element heats the water surrounding the tank and that water heats the wax evenly. The manual dial runs from 0 to 90 °C: 65-70 to melt, 75-80 to settle, 70-75 to pour, and no more. No screen or programmes: turn the dial and watch.

02 · THE MATERIAL

Stainless on everything that touches wax

Iron, zinc, brass and copper darken beeswax. Inner tank, outer jacket, ½″ ball valve and handles are acid-resistant stainless steel, with 1.2 mm sheet on both walls; the lid, 0.8 mm, uninsulated. The valve pours straight into the candle mould (867, 1866, 2609) or the block tray (1835) without tilting the unit; the ladle 1827 lifts what the valve leaves.

03 · OTHER WAXES

Soy, paraffin or depilatory: yes, at their temperature

Two customers asked about soy wax and depilatory wax: the melter heats water and the wax takes its temperature, so it works for any wax melting below 90 °C, with the dial at that wax’s point (soy melts at 50-60, paraffins and depilatory waxes at 55-75). Lyson designs it for beeswax; for cosmetics or depilation it is best kept to a single use, because the smell and residue of one wax pass to the next.

04 · FIRST USE AND LIMITS

Water up to the vent; it does not sterilise

Before the first session fill the jacket until water shows at the vent hole: that is the level. The water does not touch the wax but evaporates, and is topped up so the element never runs dry; soft water is better, as lime leaves marks. And a rule of the trade: it melts and settles, it does not sterilise; American foulbrood spores need an autoclave at 120 °C, and wax from colonies dead of foulbrood is not recycled.

05 · BEFORE YOU BUY

The melter is supplied with lid, valve and dial; moulds, wicks, ladle and tray come separately.