Candle Mould - Owl

01 · IT OPENS IN TWO

What makes the figure possible

A tube mould can only make straight shapes. This one opens down the middle, so it reproduces the ears, the beak and the relief of the feathers — places where the wax grips and from which it would not come out otherwise.

It closes with elastic bands around it, and there is a knack to that: too loose and wax escapes at the joint, too tight and it distorts the figure. Just enough for the two halves to meet flush.

02 · TWENTY-FIVE GRAMS

And a number 3 wick

Each owl asks for about 25 g of wax: a kilo makes forty. The recommended wick is the medium, number 3.

Cut it longer than the mould and leave it taut and centred, tied to a stick laid across the top. Slack, the flame sits off-centre and the candle opens up on one side.

03 · POURING AND UNMOULDING

60 °C and unhurried

On figures with recesses it is worth spraying the inside with silicone before closing: the wax grips in the angles and unmoulding gets awkward.

Pour the wax at around 60 °C, slowly, so it reaches every hollow. Once set, pull the bands off, open the mould and the piece comes out. If a well has formed in the base as it cooled, top it up with a second splash.

04 · FINISHING THE BASE

The detail that makes it light

Trim the wick underneath, level the base with a knife so it stands, and leave a centimetre on top.

And the last move, which is appreciated: dip the tip of the wick in warm wax. It lights first time and does not spit. The mould seam, if it shows, is tidied with a fingernail or a warm blade.

05 · BEFORE YOU BUY

This is the mould: