Electric Bee Pollen Mill

01 · WHY YOU GRIND POLLEN

So the patty binds and leaves no lumps

Whole pollen is no good for mixing: in a protein patty you have to break the pellet so it blends with the rest and gives an even paste the bees eat without leaving lumps. The four screens — 2, 4, 6 and 8 mm — are what let you choose the texture: fine for mixes that have to bind and stay plastic, coarser when you want the pollen to show and be eaten slowly.

02 · ONLY POLLEN FROM HEALTHY HIVES

The check that comes before switching on

Before grinding anything, a check that is not optional: pollen is only milled if it comes from healthy hives. Pollen is a known vehicle for pathogens, and grinding and handing out pollen of doubtful origin is the fastest way to carry a problem from one hive to the whole apiary. If the source is not yours and you cannot vouch for it, it does not go into the mill.

03 · WHAT THE MACHINE IS LIKE

Single-phase motor and a thirty-eight hopper

The motor is 0.75 HP at 220 V, single-phase, and moves 15 to 80 kg/h depending on the screen fitted: the finer the mesh, the fewer kilos an hour. The 38 cm hopper takes generous loads without standing over it, and at 69.5 cm tall and 5.85 kg the mill goes on a bench and stores on any shelf.

04 · BEFORE YOU BUY

Two things before buying. This is a mill, not a dryer or a cleaner: the pollen has to go in dry and clean, because damp it cakes on the screen and with impurities it forces you to stop. And the throughput you will see depends on the mesh: the 80 kg/h is with the 8 mm screen, and with the 2 mm the rate drops to the bottom of the range. 220 V single-phase motor: check your workshop socket takes it.