Beeswax Pouring pot

01 · WHAT IT IS FOR

Pouring a thread, not melting the batch

The spout channels the wax into a fine, aimed thread, which is what three wax-room jobs need: fixing foundation to the top bar of a frame, filling candle moulds without running down the sides, and coating plastic frames. It is hand-sized and thin-walled, meant for dosing — the batch is melted elsewhere and arrives here already liquid.

02 · THE HEAT SOURCE

No induction; radiant, electric and bain-marie yes

Induction needs a ferromagnetic base and brass has none: the hob simply does not see it. It works on a radiant ceramic hob, on an electric plate and, better than anywhere, in a bain-marie, where a thin wall cannot overheat in spots. Half the confusion comes from the word: almost any flat hob gets called ceramic today and plenty of them are induction — check the symbol on yours before ordering. Over a direct flame it can be done, on a low heat and with the wax watched, but it is not where it is happiest.

03 · BRASS AND COLOUR

It carries heat very well, which is why wax is not kept in it

Brass moves heat quickly, so the wax stays fluid while you pour instead of setting halfway through. The trade-off has to be said: prolonged contact between hot wax and brass, copper, iron or zinc darkens the wax — stainless steel and aluminium do not. In a pouring pot, where the wax spends minutes, the effect is small; in a pan where you melt it and hold it hot all afternoon, it is not. So the sensible split is to melt in stainless or in a bain-marie and keep this one for dosing, above all when that wax is going into foundation or up for sale, where colour is looked at.

04 · BEFORE YOU BUY

The temperature ceiling is set by the wax, not the pot: it melts at 61–65 °C, works well between 75 and 85, and above 100 loses volatiles and darkens. Keep the wax dry, too: a drop of water in hot wax flashes and spits. Capacity is a little under 0.6 litres brimful, so count on roughly 400 g of wax a go.